Monday, May 6, 2013

Making your own Peplum Top: Zoeeden Designs {Make for Mom 2013}


Hello I am Zoeope, (my blogging name) and I blog at Zoeeden Designs. I discovered sewing a few years ago and I love it. I sew for myslef and the children and I love to make girls dress/outfits. (check out my blog and you'll see :) ) I love the Shaffer Sisters blog a lot, discovered it quite recently and their children's outfits does inspire me. A big Thank you to them for inviting me over for this series. Also looking forward to learning from other mums.

I'm here to talk about a peplum dress  I made on my blog last year which was a circle peplum, but for illustration purposes I made another peplum with pleats variation. 
Will do a tutorial for the skirt part of the peplum.

Drafting a fitted skirt is quite simple you only need three measurement.
Waist, Hips and length of skirt. Will use my measurements as example.
Actual measurement to use is
waist divided by 4 + 1 +  seam allowance = 28/4 + 1 + 0.5 = 8.5 ( The extra 1" is for the darts to be incorporated later.)
Hips divided by 4 + seam allowance = 37/4 + 0.5 = 9.75
Length + hem allowance = 24 + 2 = 26
On a piece of paper mark this three lines

Point a) is waistline, b) is hipline c) is the length of the skirt 
Hipline is standard 8" from waistline. Point c is length of skirt, width is hipline measurement - 1 i.e.
9.75 -1 = 8.75. This is to give the skirt some fitting. for a more fitted (pencil skirt) use hipline measurement - 2 which will be 7.75
Join the three points using dotted lines then turn the lines into a solid line.

Turn dotted lines into solid lines

Measure 4" from the centre front and put 1" darts. 
Put in the darts at the 4" mark from centre front. Dart will be 5" long. Also because of the way the body is shaped, measure 0.5" from the side down and redraw a slight curve, as shown in the diagram.
This is the front of the skirt finished. Cut on a fold.
The back is basically the same as the front except that 
1) The centre back line is extended by about 1" to accommodate the zip and seam allowance since it will not be cut on a fold. (but as two pieces) 
2) The dart will be 6" long and not 5" as for the front.

Drafting a circle skirt.
My method of drafting a circle skirt is quite easy, I use any existing circle skirt pattern and trace out the waist curve to my desired measurement. i.e. waist 28/4 = 7 +seam allowance. so I needed the waist measurement to be 7.5" and lenght to be 9" + seam allowance.

Daughters size 3 circle pattern.
 If you look closely you will see that I used my daughters (size 3) pattern to draft mine. A circle is always a circle. However for someone has a much more bigger waist measurement it might be better to just use this tutorial in drafting a circle skirt

 I then mark out my desired length at different points and join the curve.  I cut out two pieces, one on fold and one not on fold.
Note: Fabric to be cut is always folded into two.


Construction
In the construction
1) I sew all the darts in the bodice and lining
2) Join the shoulders together and side seams together for the fabric, repeat this step for the lining


3) Sew the darts for the skirts, make the pleats (or if circle, join all pieces to form a continuous fabric piece.)
Baste the peplum to the skirt 


4)Join top bodice to the skirt part. Repeat for lining.


5) Add the zip to the back. This is an example of a  Zip tutorial, very easy with good results. 
6) Join the main dress to lining at the neck only.
7) Hem.
Wont be able to go into a lot of detail for the construction to prevent the post from getting toooo long.



There you I have it, another peplum dress.
Thanks for inviting me and organizing this Shaffer Sisters, keep up the inspiration. Hoping any part of this post is useful for another mum out there.
Regards.

5 comments:

  1. I love this! and the math was really helpful
    Great job Mum!
    with love

    ReplyDelete
  2. You look amazing! Thank you for the pattern making instructions!

    ReplyDelete
  3. love this, I will surely give it a go

    ReplyDelete

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